They burn the dead

When a Dom is born, it is said that people weep, they weep for the newborn’s impending life of hardship on one of the bottom rungs of Hindu society.  As an Untouchable, they’re destined for an almost inescapable life of ‘unclean work’ in the community.

In a culture where death is viewed as contagious and touching the deceased as impure, it is the Dom’s job to burn the dead.  They weigh the wood and build the pyre.  On the banks of the holy Ganges, they burn over 70 bodies each day. Using scarves as masks, they walk with heat and smoke.  They bend and break the bones until only ash is left.  After the fire has burned, they sift through the remains for gold teeth and jewellery.






The Holy City

In the early morning, there is a pocket of time, just as the sun rises, before the crowds descend onto the ghats, before the heat sets in, when the eternal river seems deserted – there is a moment of clarity.

Bodies lie sleeping in the morning cool, a barefoot family undress dutifully and walk in silent admiration to the water’s edge, a few men bathe quietly, drifting with the cleansing current, another prays, eyes closed and cross-legged. It is now, in this moment, a moment that passes in seconds that I can fully feel the holiness of this city, the reverence in the devotees and the sacredness of the flowing river.

A sacred feeling, although it is ever-present, in this moment, it is untainted by crowds, pollution, stray animals, heat or hassle. It is these few seconds that I will remember when I recall the holy city of Varanasi.






Nyepi 2014

Nyepi – A time for family, community and new beginnings.





People of Bali

Bali is well known for its cheap prices, unruly nightlife, hot weather and great surf  – but we rarely hear about the people.  I was pre-warned about the water, the roads, the mosquitos, and well advised on places to stay, where to shop, where to drink but in the western playground that Bali has become, the life and soul of the place can be overlooked by visitors.

Balinese people have a calm, friendly and playful disposition.  I was embarrassed more than once, when they would apologise to me for their poor english.  A place so heavily reliant on tourism, has created an environment where locals bury parts of their identity to fulfil the demands of the tourist.  Rindel, now a sculptor, described the anger and impatience guests would display when he couldn’t speak english at a previous job working in a hotel in Kuta.  Later, he taught himself to speak English at home with a dictionary.

In Bali, 93% of the population are devoted Hindus and their lives are rich in ceremonies and everyday rituals.  Daily offerings of simple and colourful flowers are scattered across the island.  Their karmic beliefs are embodied in their agreeable attitudes, put simply “If you are good and I am good, if you are happy and I am happy – that is good karma”, a taxi driver named Gede explained.

The cyclical beliefs of re-incarnation and devotion to all living things, although contradicted by the rubbish encrusted shoreline – the Balinese and their connection to the environment was all around.