They burn the dead

When a Dom is born, it is said that people weep, they weep for the newborn’s impending life of hardship on one of the bottom rungs of Hindu society.  As an Untouchable, they’re destined for an almost inescapable life of ‘unclean work’ in the community.

In a culture where death is viewed as contagious and touching the deceased as impure, it is the Dom’s job to burn the dead.  They weigh the wood and build the pyre.  On the banks of the holy Ganges, they burn over 70 bodies each day. Using scarves as masks, they walk with heat and smoke.  They bend and break the bones until only ash is left.  After the fire has burned, they sift through the remains for gold teeth and jewellery.






Leaving Ceylon

When we met, we were polite and awkward like all new friends. I knew I liked you, but I didn’t understand you.  You were bright, colourful, full of life.  I was hesitant, shy, self-conscious.  You were always busy, sometimes it felt like I was in the way, but your smile reassured me.  You fed me, food and experiences I had never tasted.  Flavours I long to taste again.

You reminded me of a simpler way.  You were detached from possessions but dependent on nature.  Sometimes you opened up, you spoke of your pain, your loss, your sorrow.  I listened.  You were hot and cold, sometimes it felt like you were angry, like you were testing me.  But I learned, behind that intensity was a calmness, an inner peace, an acceptance of the extreme emotions you feel.

I hope we will meet again, and like old friends we will embrace and reminisce of that time we first met.


Money please!

money please


Riding my bike in a backstreet in Sri Lanka, I was met at doorways and driveways by curious onlookers, some would smile and wave, others would stare. I came to a dead end where the road wrapped around a school playground. There were three young girls playing and when they saw me, they waved excitedly, one started to shout happily and repeatedly ‘Money please! Money please!’.

In a developing country, being asked for money was always expected. What surprised me in Sri Lanka, was the range of ways this was put forward and from a range of positions in society.

I was trying to find the train station when, despite my resistance, an old, toothless man, followed me and ushered me into a souvenir shop. I declined his offer to show me more stores and he described his family and their struggles in the aftermath of the 2006 tsunami. I walked into a store to buy a drink and he asked me to buy milk sustogen for his sick daughter. The shop was out of stock and as I was leaving the security guard warned me about the man’s ploy to return the milk later for cash. When I returned without the milk, the man pleaded for some money.

After staying in a Sri Lankan hotel for over a month I was talking to the hotel manager about a recent visit to his hometown 150km away. He described his visit with his family and the reason for his trip was to assist his son in his purchase of some land. He then asked if he could borrow 2000rp ‘just for a few days’.

While waiting at a bus station, I got talking to a local who had helped me find the right bus.  He assured me that he didn’t want any money.  As the conversation went on, he told me all he wanted was a beer, but no money.  I was about to leave town, there was no bar nearby, but he kept insisting that all he wanted was a beer, no money.

After ordering home delivered curries from a local, we spent some time talking one afternoon on the beach. He explained that his restaurant was shut down last season because he didn’t have the correct permit and it would cost $5000 to get it up and running again. He asked if I would be his business partner, he said I could go back and forth from Australia, spending the season in Sri Lanka to oversee the restaurant each year.

Who would you give money to?

Despite the different classes of society or different ploys in which to get it, they are all essentially asking for the same thing.  They view me, as a tourist, as rich.  Which, by their standards is very true.  I felt naturally more inclined to give money to some of these people rather than others.  On reflection, I realised that I, as a traveller, passing through, am not in a position to judge who will use the money well.  We must decide for ourselves, whether we are helping by giving money or teaching a generation and society that tourists are an easy way to make money.

#meetthelostandfound – Joonas


Location: Arugam Bay, Sri lanka

What is your name? Joonas

How old are you? 25

Where were you born? Finland, inland and further inland

Where is your home? Finland but maybe more New Zealand now

What is your religion? Kind of , pretty much believe in karma

What have you learned from this trip?  Better surfing, I’m glad, satisfied with my surfing.  I’ve learned to keep going, keep doing what I’m doing.  Surfing and travelling it’s cool.  I’ve learned to look at things from a different angle, like looking at the locals and their lifestyle.  But most of all having new experiences teach you how to deal with situations better.

What has been the highlight of this trip so far? Full moon surf for sure & the Whiskey Point trip (a 12km bike ride in the pouring rain) and all the good surfs I’ve had and good chats I’ve had with people.

What is your impression so far of this place? Really good, a place with such strong opposites, but there are good waves, mellow, cool people.  The biggest thing is meeting new people travellers and locals – really positive.

What do you miss most about home? I don’t know, in Finland there is not many things, friends and family.  Friends in NZ and the NZ summer

Would you describe yourself as lost or found?  Yeah both, definitely you can always learn something more…50/50…not lost, more found.

Learn more about #meetthelostandfound here

Drifting Shadows

Pulling, dragging, floating, we wait.

Warming waters and shifting sand forms the mood.

You hold the answers.

Speaking in dreams, you guide us.

Smokey winds are unpredictable and ever-present.

Striking the clear skies, the thunder is deep, like a distant memory.

We know our place.

The full moon outlines faceless shadows.

In the darkness we find familiarity.

We are the black rising mounds.








#meetthelostandfound – Tuomas



Location: Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka

What is your name? Tuomas

How old are you? 27

Where were you born? Finland, Nokia

Where is home? Finland doesn’t feel like home, it hasn’t for at least 5 years

What is your religion? None

What made you come to this country? Because of the jungle.  Surf of course and jungle fever.

What is your impression so far of this place? Maybe 4/10 or 3/10 that’s all I can say…tuk tuk drivers, the gay tuk tuk mafia

What have you learned from this trip? Ummm….How to do nothing for a long long time

What do you miss most about home?  Nothing (referring to Finland) that’s for sure…My grandma, but she died 4 months ago so nothing. The New Zealand summer

Would you describe yourself as lost or found? (Laughs) 60% found 40% lost.  But it’s up to the day…maybe more found – 70% found 30% lost.

Learn more about #meetthelostandfound here


When we are unanchored and free to wander, we surrender ourselves to the experience of the unfamiliar.  Our paths wind up and down challenging peaks, inspiring views and from the tangible track we cross into the rocky, unchartered, inward roads of self discovery.  Travel makes us question who we are, where we are and where we want to be.  #meethelostandfound is an ongoing series based on people we meet who are on an indefinite journey of losing and finding themselves – physically, mentally and spiritually.